The Best Overnight Wilderness Fly Fishing Trip in Chile

Posted by PStraub

Patagonia is home to many spectacular fly fishing opportunities. Numerous international flights, improved infrastructure, and an abundance of lodges all make a fly fishing trip to Patagonia an annual event for many serious anglers. From the large rivers and rainforest-like beauty of Chile's waters to the arid, majestic pampas of Argentina's rivers, creeks, and lakes, Patagonia's array of available places to take a fly fishing trip expand every year. Yet, for many years the region lacked a true wilderness overnight fishing experience. Until now.

Many of the region's spectacular lodges have access to large estancias and private waters with overnight floats and populations of good-sized trout, but none have the feel of the extreme backcountry of destinations like Mongolia or the Alaskan bush. After nearly a decade of exploring, trailblazing, and dialing-in the expanse of required logistics, there is now a place of wilderness fly fishing adventure in Chile.

Fortunately, for Montana Angler's guests, we've been exploring the ideal large-trout habitat of this region for years and the stories of brown trout as long as your arm carelessly feeding on large dry flies, steamers, and mice are indeed true. This special place is appropriately called the River of Dreams Basecamp and it is ONLY accessible by horseback or helicopter.

Discover the River of Dreams Basecamp

The River of Dreams is roughly the size of the West's Yellowstone River in Montana’s Paradise Valley with big sweeping bends and mountain views, but that’s where the comparison stops. The River of Dreams is full of structure--those perfect places that grow big trout, very big trout. Massive, downed trees line the banks throughout its length. Even the middle of the river is full of stumps, submerged logs, and deep holes. The water color reflects the verdant forest rising in all directions. Lenga trees covered in moss reach out over the water. If an ideal river were to be drawn up by some of the world's greatest anglers and the main component of their creation would be habitat for big trout, the River of Dreams would be that river.

Like many big-fish fisheries in the world, the fishing on the River of Dreams isn't as simple as floating a tailwater in the continental United States. The fishing here is as grand as its backdrop. Fishing is fast-paced and visual. Prepare to be ready--ready to cast, ready to mend, ready to strip, and ready to furiously set the hook. On the River of Dreams you need to make accurate casts into structure and move your fly quickly to avoid getting hung up. This is not the place to learn to fly fish. This is the place that good casts, good drifts, and good intentions are often rewarded with aggressive takes rarely seen in places with zip codes and cell phone towers.

Chile's River of Dreams Basecamp is perhaps the best true wilderness setting for an overnight fly fishing trip in all of Patagonia. Only accessible by helicopter or horseback, anglers desiring solitude and big trout will probably find plenty of both.

In the Beginning There Were Only Large Trout...

The River of Dreams is special. The River of Dreams Basecamp began from an idea by Andy Manstein and his wife after moving from the northern hemisphere to Chile. The two built a home on the shores of Lago Claro shortly after relocating. They had a hunch that one of the rivers near Lago Claro held incredible fishing, but rapids just below the mouth and impenetrable bush made reaching the water impossible. Rapids, waterfalls, and boulder jams on the lower end of the river prevent upstream boat travel. The river in between surely held secrets. Secrets that danced in Andy's dreams every night until finally Andy began working with one of Montana Angler's partner outfitters in the area. Andy and Eduardo Barrueto of Magic Waters Patagonia and Patagonia Baker Lodge travelled via horseback into the river to explore. What they witnessed inspired the idea that would become the River of Dreams Basecamp. Using helicopters and horses to move building materials, and with the help of a local gaucho named Jorge, Manstein and Eduardo were able to establish a remote camp in the heart of the valley--the Rivers of Dreams Basecamp.

For nearly 40 miles the River of Dreams flows through a remote and rugged Chilean landscape. Bookended by impassable canyons and rapids, the trout here remain as they have for well over a hundred years--unpressured and hungry. — For nearly 40 miles the River of Dreams flows through a remote and rugged Chilean backcountry landscape. Bookended by impassable canyons and rapids, the trout here remain as they have for well over a hundred years--unpressured, hungry, and many of them quite large.

Shortly after Eduardo and Andy opened the River of Dreams Basecamp, we began exploring the waters there. What we found astonished us--and keep in mind we fish some spectacular places on the planet. As mentioned before, the large river is home to abundant habitat to grow big trout. We also explored a small freestone and a unique spring creek. The spring creek was ideal for skating large flies to cruising fish. The small freestone felt much like the mountain freestones we fish back home like the Boulder River at lower levels and some of the smaller waters in Yellowstone National Park...but without a trace of human development in sight.

Anglers headed to the River of Dreams Basecamp primarily fish the main river for large brown trout. A small spring creek and a small mountain freestone offer options aside from the larger river, but the prospect for a trout of a lifetime means most anglers spend most of their time on the large River of Dreams.

The Fishing at River of Dreams

Fast forward to today and the River of Dreams Basecamp is now a place we explore regularly. These are hands down the most remote fisheries in Patagonia and anglers now base out of a unique backcountry fixed basecamp that allows unique access to these waters. At the outlet of Lago Caro the River of Dreams begins. It is remote and inaccessible to modern forms of transportation. Shortly after exiting Lago Caro the river dives into a steep gorge with massive rapids. Likewise near the mouth of the river another rugged gorge filled with whitewater prevents upriver travel by jet boat. In between the two large cataracts is this 40 mile remote valley where the large river meanders through one of Chile's most scenic valleys. This area is in the temperate rain forest with stands of virgin forest dripping with Spanish moss surrounding by towering peaks dripping with hanging glaciers.

A small spring creek flows into the River of Dreams. This provides a nice contrast to the larger river. Depending on localized weather, large brown trout can move into this creek and cruise the shallows sipping dry flies from the surface.

River of Dreams Spring Creek

The backcountry base camp is strategically located at the mouth of an unnamed spring creek. This productive fishery holds some very large browns. Although these are spring creek fish they are so remote that they still prefer large foam dry flies vs. traditional smaller technical patterns. The most effective technique on the spring creek is to strip large foam dry flies across the surface that help produce aggressive takes. The spring creek is access directly from the camp via wade fishing and is a great way to start or end a day when combined on a day of the larger River of Dreams.

Mountain Freestone River Bongo Bongo

The Rio Bongo Bongo is a mountain freestone fishery that joins the River of Dreams about 200 yards downstream of the basecamp. The fishery offers classic riffle and run water along with some great pocket water. The resident fish in the Bongo Bongo are mid sized brown trout although the lower reaches can hold some larger fish that likely work there way up from the larger river. The Bongo Bongo provides classic dry fly fishing options. Access to the Bongo Bongo is wade fishing only after the short hike from camp.

The gear for fly fishing at River of Dreams Basecamp is meant for big fish. The flies are often large. Six and seven weight rods are best. Fly lines can typically be floating lines but a sink-tip can be helpful. The large trout swimming in the River of Dreams aren't known to be bashful so big and bold is often the best choice.

Fishing Equipment

We recommend a 6 and a 7 weight for the River of Dreams Basecamp. Even on the spring creek it is nice to fish a 6 weight to help cast larger flies. A 5 weight could come in handy if you downsize flies and would be perfect for the Bongo Bongo. On the River of Dreams. larger dry flies and mouse patterns are best fished on a 6 weight. We recommend a 7 weight for throwing streamers as well. A floating line will work but a sink-tip can be more efficient such. A 200 grain longer 18-25' sink-tip is an ideal match.

Lodging and Camp

The River of Dreams Basecamp is a permanent camp that is left up year round. The camp was designed by Eduardo's head guide Andy Manstein, a German-Chilean who had crafted his back country construction skills on his own off-the-grid home on Lago Caro further up river. The tents are built on wooden decks with large wooden trusses that are covered in heavy duty hypalon (the same material used to build whitewater rafts). There are 4 guests tents for sleeping quarters, each with 2 twin beds, tables and a porch. For the 2018/2019 season Andy and Eduardo have updated the "lodge tent" to construct a large kitchen, dining and living room tent for gathering in the evenings after fishing. The camp is powered by electricity provided by generators. Although the camp is off the grid a satellite phone is on hand for daily check-ins with the Magic Waters Patagonia Lodge near Balmaceda. A shower and bathroom tent complete with on demand hot water and toilets allows for some of the creature comforts of home.

The lodging at River of Dreams Basecamp is in well appointed custom, unique cabins. For a wilderness basecamp they are comfortable and with nearly every amenity you might expect at a destination fishing lodge. — The lodging at River of Dreams Basecamp is in well appointed custom, unique cabins. For a wilderness basecamp they are comfortable and come with nearly every amenity you might expect at a destination fishing lodge.

Dining and Meals

You will be amazed at the high quality of the meals when you are in the basecamp. Fresh food is delivered by the local gaucho via horseback twice a week. Meals are prepared by a trained chef in camp. Lunches are often informal "assados" on the river bank grilling up local meats and sausages along with bread baked each morning by the chef in camp. Fine Chilean wines and local beers are also packed into camp.

Read River of Dreams Basecamp Trip Reports

Trip Report: River of Dreams Basecamp Our Original Visit in 2017

Trip Report: River of Dreams Basecamp and Magic Waters 2018

Trip Report: River of Dreams Rivers of Dreams Basecamp, Patagonia Baker Lodge, and Magic Waters 2024